Video Giggles

We’ve been experimenting with our new iMacs and have discovered a very cool process in iMovie. Here’s the result – a quick, one-minute video based on our Rome trip…

Roman Vacation

Home, Sweet Home

Wow, that took a while. We left the Paris apartment at 7.15am on Monday and walked through our front door at 5.05am Thursday.

Thank you Singapore for another lovely stopover.

The trip was a blast and we look forward to chatting with you all soon.

Up, Up & Away

The Eiffel Tower, Notre Dame Cathedral and yesterday, the Arc de Triomphe – the steps that Chris, Sam and I have ascended during this holiday have been equal to several days on a Stairmaster … I hope. It may make up for the fact that everything we have put in our mouths seems to have been cooked, coated or confited in saturated fat…

While the view from the tower is brilliant and obviously much higher, I prefer the outlook from the Arc. Once at the top, one is perfectly positioned to take in the breadth and beauty of the entire city.

Atop the Arc de Triomphe

I especially love the sight of Sacre Coeur, perched high on the hill of Montmatre.The monument was designed by Napoleon to celebrate France’s remarkable victory at Austerlitz and although the arch was a brash and unashamed testament to his own power, I was a little sad when I discovered Napoleon died before its completion. He never had the opportunity to climb the stairs and look out at the city, but it was finished in time for his funeral procession to pass underneath. Better late than never, I suppose.

Today, our penultimate day in the city, we took Sam to bid au revoir to his favourite tower of all time, the Eiffel. We strolled underneath it and examined it from all aspects.

I was expecting tears when we left, but Sam was happy and at ease in the knowledge that he will return. He quizzed me about the towers of Canberra and I reminded him there was just one – Black Mountain Tower. I promised him we will visit it as soon as we’re home.

In playground under the ever-watchful eye of Mr Eiffel

Tomorrow, our final in the city, we’ll revisit the bird markets on the Ile De La Cite which Sam loved so much and then wander up to the Louvre. I don’t think I will be as stoic as Sam when I have to say goodbye to a city that I adore. The excitement of flying on an A380 and swimming in a hotel pool in Singapore has quashed Sam’s sadness. I, on the other hand, am quite positive that I suffer from whatever the opposite of homesickness is called.

A stripy art installation in the Palais Royale

Sam donates to an amazing troupe of classically-trained buskers

Note for busting (not busking) travellers: When in a non-Australian city I’m always on the look-out for decent public toilets. In Paris they are few and far between. On the walk down the Avenue des Champs Elysees on the way home from the Arc de Triomphe I spotted a sign on the footpath reading “Point WC. The Cleanest Toilet in Town”. I was hooked. I followed the directions on the sign and came to toilets/shop which charged, as a minimum, 2 Euros per visit. I was about to walk away, but I was intrigued. I paid my 2 Euros and was rewarded with a sparkling clean cubicle decorated like a library (book wallpaper, not actual books). When I finished a cleaner rushed in and scrubbed the cubicle. The soap was glorious, the sinks spotless and the towels fluffy. The shop sold toilet and bathroom paraphernalia with a massive selection of quirky toilet paper. After telling Sam and Chris about my adventure they ventured in and were ushered into a cubicle with find-a-word wallpaper. The price list had nothing to do #1s or 2s. The costs were simply an indication of cubicle size and the facilities within.

A Big Wish

“Paris is the starting point of success,” wrote Victor Hugo way back in 1867. His words were intended for the attendees of the Exposition Universelle that very same year, but for us they ring as true as the day they were written. This trip has confirmed for our family what we have known for the last few years, that Europe (if not Paris) is where we are most comfortable.

The streets of Paris and London and Rome inspire us. They challenge us, educate us and fill us with awe and respect. Yesterday we entered Sacre-Couer, the stunning cathedral built in the 1870s on the Montmatre hill with its views over all of Paris. We sat in silence in the pews feeling as small as we were and after a while I looked at Jen. She appeared to have found some sort of inner peace, as if she had re-discovered a long-dormant faith or had perhaps experienced a divine intervention. I asked what she was thinking. “You know that denim skirt I bought in London,” she responded. “How do you think it’d look with the long socks I bought in Paris and the boots I bought in Rome?”

It was a spectacular combination, I admitted,

Today we visited the cathedral of Notre Dame, built between 1163 and 1334 (I wonder what Sarah Beeny would have to say about that – “The build came in over 140 years late and waaay over budget…”). We climbed the many, many stairs to the top for yet another magical view over this fairy-tale city.

On the way up, and up, and up…

Funny faces atop Notre Dame (with a vague Eiffel Tower in the background)

When we returned to the ground floor we took our place in the pews, then for Sam’s sake lit a candle and told him to make a wish. We’ve lit many a flame with Sam many times in many cathedrals around the globe and his wish has always involved a toy connected with a show he is currently watching (“I wish for a Ben 10 omnitrix!” or “I wish for a Night Fury dragon”). But this time he said, “I wish the Notre Dame was next to where I live”.

If this cathedral was to move next to our house we figure at least one of our neighbours, Bruce & Van or Cookie & Jennifer, would be a little annoyed. Many neighbouring families would also be upset that they no longer had anywhere to park their Ford Falcon XR-6s (complete with spoilers, metallic paint jobs and chrome trims). So it’s not really practical to move the Notre Dame cathedral next to where we live, but maybe one day it will be a little more practical to move where-we-live a lot closer to the Notre Dame. One day. That’s a big wish, Sambo. Maybe let’s get the small matter of your schooling out of the way, first…

Top Of The Town

I’ve lost track of the number of times I’ve visited Paris and I can’t remember how many times I’ve seen the Eiffel Tower up close and personal, but today was the first day in my life I have explored the summit of Monsieur Eiffel’s spectacular erection.

I’m unsure as to why this is. In the early days of my backpacking adventures it would have had to do with cost. In recent years it would have had to do with queues. But today, we three cashed-up tourists set out bright and early and arrived at the launch pad before any crowds had mustered.

The experience was magical – even, to borrow one of Chris's favourite expressions, “mind-blowing”. My companions were in equal amounts of awe. Once at the top and looking at Paris from a high, through the mist, Chris noted that the tower was swaying in the wind. When I reminded him the structure was originally intended to be standing for just 20 years, and was built in the late 1800s, we descended tout de suite. With our feet firmly planted on the ground, Sam cried out in despair, tears running down his cheeks, “I don’t want to leave the Eiffel Tower!”

Level 2 of Eiffel Tower, on the way to the summit

Safe again on Terra Firma

Sam is an extremely well-travelled four-and-a-half year old, but nothing has captured his imagination quite like the cast-iron wonder. Since seeing it again on Sunday Sam has fired questions at me about its size, age, construction and history. Fortunately, a few years ago I wrote a short history of the landmark (see it here – http://www.iconistry.com/2011/01/eiffel-tower.html – on our website ‘Iconistry’) and was well armed when the barrage began. We have promised him we will return before we leave next week.

In other news, we spent a freezing morning yesterday in the Luxembourg Gardens while Sam amused himself in the playground…

It’s all fun until someone loses a finger, thanks to frostbite…

…and we stopped by the Musee Rodin following our Eiffel Tower adventure today…

Sam and Rodin’s ‘The Thinker’ – it possible for a photo to be oxymoronic?

Finally, just this afternoon Sam amused an entire green grocery store with his bold experiments with the French language. At the green grocer:

Fruiterer: “Bonjour.”

Sam: “Bonjour.”

Fruiterer: “Ca va?”

Sam: “Tres bien.”

(fruiterer and shop assistant laugh)

Sam: “What do I say next, Mum?”

Mum: “Merci. Au revoir.”

Sam: “Merci. Au revoir.”

Fruiterer and assistant (waving & laughing): “Au revoir!”

Almost Thrown By A Citroen

Sam is asleep, Jen is enjoying a glass of red and the blinds have been drawn on our first full day in Paris, but it was almost curtains for me yesterday as we wandered around after our arrival. We checked in to our usual apartment in Le Marais, which is even better the second time around, then visited the supermarket to stock up. Once the necessities were taken care of we had an hour or two before dinner so headed to our favourite places, the Ile St Louis and the Ile de la Cite, where Sam played in the playground behind Notre Dame.

In front of Notre Dame is a fairly busy road crossing the island, and a very strange pedestrian crossing. There are no lights, no ‘Walk’ or ‘Don’t Walk’ signs, just a zebra crossing. The traffic continued to zoom past, so I assumed the rules were the same as Rome – step out blindly and trust the hand of God to take care of you. It turns out there is no God in Paris, there are just Parisians. They’re not necessarily the anti-Christ but the woman behind the wheel of the Citroën that nearly took me out was definitely a bit of a demon. I jumped out of the way as she blasted past, and was left in the middle of the road looking like … well … an idiot tourist.

Last night dinner was cassoulet, a bizarrely tasty French dish which, if you don’t wish to spend a week making it, comes in a tin. When you open the tin it looks like dog food. As you heat it up it smells like dog food. But my goodness, it’s the tastiest meal on Earth. That’s the amazing thing – in Paris everything seems better. It’s like that ad for James Boags. Wine tastes more classy, bread tastes more buttery, cheese tastes more cheesy and in Paris my beautiful wife is even more gorgeous than usual (I told her this and she said it’s just because she’s so happy here).

Anyway, after a thoroughly lovely evening and our first full night’s sleep of the entire trip we headed out this morning for a huge walk to the Eiffel Tower (about eight kilometres), which Sam walked entirely without complaint. We were very proud of our fit little trooper.

On the way we stopped at the bird markets on the Ile de la Cite.

Sam & Mummy at the bird markets

A place to buy more Sams

Wishing to rest out little man’s legs on the way back we caught the Batobus ferry which was quite fitting, as both daddy and Sam were wearing their Batman (or is that ‘Batoman’?) t-shirts.

This afternoon, after Sam didn’t have a daytime sleep but daddy did, we headed out again, hopped on the Batobus again, then wandered back via the Arc de Triomphe, Tuileries Gardens and Louvre Museum. It was another huge walk for Sam (about 2.5 hours), and another excuse for Jen and I to drink more red once we finally arrived home. A good result all around.

Sam at the Louvre

Under the Sea

There was a definite feeling of Spring in the air during our final two days in London. The temperatures reached a balmy 14 degrees, the heads of blooming daffodils were poking through the muddy greens and the general atmosphere seemed lighter and brighter. With Chris at GWR HQ I decided to make the most of the rare sunlight and get outdoors as much as possible. I was also hoping to give the final, clinging remnants of jetlag a good boot in the arse.

Sam and I spent one morning in Holland Park where we found a playground (hooray!) and I admired the beautiful homes backing onto the park (Chris told me that night that Richard Branson lives there. I didn’t see him). We spent some time wandering around Kensington and I ventured into Clarkes, where I used to work, to get a perspective from the other side of the counter. We had morning tea at Starbucks however, where the clientele are permitted to have their phones on and chocolate is allowed on the cappuccinos.

We met Chris after work and wandered through Hyde Park along the banks of the Serpentine. Hundreds of people had the same idea and for 5 o’clock on a Thursday afternoon the park was a hive of activity, a sight more reminiscent of a Saturday afternoon.

In Hyde Park on a bridge over The Serpentine

Yesterday, we went to the British Museum to see the mummies (dead Egyptian aristocracy, not women with children). Time Out warned that some children found the exhibition quite overwhelming, but Sam loved them. Fortunately he has watched an episode of Ben 10 featuring an alien mummy so was quite familiar with the gruesome spectacles. He was especially taken with the cat mummies.

Following morning tea at Starbucks, we found a spectacular seven acre kids’ playground near Russell Square called Coram’s Fields. There were bikes, scooters, climbing equipment of every shape and size, sand pits, a petting zoo and a flying fox. It is a community-run initiative with a nursery and child-care centre attached. It was well worth the visit, and free.

Now we’re seated on the Eurostar with the train travelling through the chunnel. Sam can’t quite believe we’re under the sea in a train.

Paris-bound on Eurostar

I was sad to leave London and I’m confident we’ll work out a way to return permanently one day, but brave new adventures in Paris await. Au revoir!

NOTE TO READERS: I stupidly forgot to take the camera out on both days. I apologise for the lack of photos. Je suis desole.

Double dessert on night one in our Paris apartment

Getting Around

We Australian adults seem to spend our entire lives attempting to avoid public transport, and with good reason. So it’s quite a surprise when we see those same vehicles through a different set of eyes – a four-year-old set of eyes, for instance. Suddenly the idea of a train (especially one in a tunnel) or a bus (especially a double-decker) is quite a thrill. At least that’s what Sam has been attempting to convince Jenny and I of over the last few days, as the importance of the journey has well and truly overcome that of the destination.

Yesterday we achieved the Holy Trinity – train, double-decker bus and black cab. The Tube train was caught, of course, to the London Transport Museum where we climbed all over old trains and buses.

Sam takes a corner…

We then walked (another form of public transport, I guess) to Trafalgar Square…

Sam tames the wild beast

…before catching a double-decker bus back to our apartment in Chelsea. That afternoon, after a very deep sleep (for me as well as Sam – jetlag has finally begun robbing us of night-time sleep) we hopped into a black cab…

Mummy and Sam travelling in style

…to the Natural History Museum, and from there we walked home. But it wasn’t over yet. This morning Sam begged for more, so we hopped on a Tube train to Tower Hill where we had a brilliant view of Tower Bridge…

Sam and Daddy and stripey beanies

…before wandering the always-amazing grounds of the Tower of London, including a walk through London’s most secure building to view the Crown Jewels.

Sam guards the Crown Jewels…

Of course, a long walk along the Thames was followed by a Tube ride home, and after another very satisfying daytime sleep, we caught one more double-decker to Clapham Common so Jenny and I could check out our old haunts. This was lovely and brought on strong feelings of homesickness for London.

It’s now 8.10pm and exhaustion has set in again. Time to head back to bed – hopefully we’ll sleep past 2am this time.

Knowing Looks

During the 13 hour 25 minute flight from Singapore to London Chris and I shared a number of knowing looks. The first came roughly six seconds after settling into our seats when Sam asked, for the first of what seemed like a billion times, “When are we going to be there?” There was another intense stare when the man in front of me reclined his seat within seven seconds of settling into it. A glance shot like a bullet between seats 34A and C when we realised that the coughing lady seated across the aisle was surely tubercular. Each occasion (and there were many) the jolly Scotsman sitting behind us laughed unusually loudly at whatever he was watching on the in-flight entertainment triggered another bewildered stare.

These looks all said one thing, asked one question – Why are we doing this to ourselves? But when we arrived in London our doubts were allayed.

After a night of strangely uninterrupted sleep in our fantastic apartment we decided we would reward Sam for his spectacular behaviour on the aeroplane by catching a double-decker bus into Oxford Circus and visiting Hamley’s, the famous five-storey toy store on Regent Street. Sam finally got his Omnitrix (readers with a boy-child under 10 will know what this is) and an action figure from the same show (Ben 10) called ‘Armadrillo’. Sam was delighted with the whole experience and Chris and I were fascinated, in a politically-correct fashion, when the employee taking care of our purchases was dressed like a gollywog.

Sam and Hamley’s man

Snacking in Carnaby Street

We wandered down Carnaby Street, had morning tea at Pret-a-Manger, shopped at Boots, Waitrose and Waterstones (a few of my favourite stores) and then caught the tube back to Chelsea. What a morning! What a city!

The day was topped off with a visit to the children’s playground in the grounds of St Luke’s Church in Chelsea. Sam had loads of fun on the equipment and Chris and I occupied ourselves by marvelling at the number of nannies (child-minders, not grandmothers) on duty. We seemed to be the only actual parents. With money, it seems, comes a distinct lack of personal contact with one’s children.

A couple of swingers in the playground

Chelsea view from our apartment

Arrived In London

Just a quickie (as it’s 1am and we’re awake, entertaining Sam) to say we arrived safely in London last night after a painfully long flight and moved in to our very awesome apartment. Our accommodation is way beyond our expectations which is good, especially considering our last London experience. Will update in the next few days, hopefully after a lot more sleep.

Here We Go Again

It was a very early and slightly hung-over (thanks Karen & Jacques for your hospitality) start to the day, but it was worth it as we avoided airport queues, had time for a bad brekky, allowed Sam to run around in the McDonald’s playground and, of course, stocked up on duty free (1 x Jack, 1 x Campari, 1 x Cointreau, 1 x vodka) before settling into the Singapore Airlines A380. The flight itself was fairly bearable, mainly thanks to the fact that Sam had a 90-minute sleep. Bliss.

Of course, as we’ve been in Singapore for an afternoon Sam has had a swim and a vomit. It would not be a holiday without both. The swim was in our brilliant hotel pool, the vomit was on one of the banana lounges (and on mummy … yummy) by the side of the pool after Sam swallowed too much water during several hours of splashing around.

Sam takes a leap of faith

Mermaid and Merman

Tomorrow will no doubt bring more of the same before we fly out to London at 1pm. We’ll be back online once we’ve recovered from that ordeal.