Outside of chaos, not a lot is organised well in Rome, and that is a very large part of the city’s charm. But one thing the Romans do well is Christmas lights, and in an amazing feat of organisational brilliance they turn them all on around the city at dusk on the first Sunday of December. That, of course, was a few days ago, when we wandered out with the rest of the city’s population to see what they’d come up with this year. Jen, Sam and I were totally charmed by the magic of it all. To me, this is what Europe is all about – a cold walk on crowded streets, pitch black by five o’clock, and a sense of Christmas all around. In London it centres on Regent Street, in Paris it’s all about the Champs Elysees, and in Rome the sparkling-light action is at Via dei Condotti – the street that leads away from the inexplicably-popular Spanish Steps. Anyway, here’s a pic that does the scene no credit at all, but gives some idea of the crowds…
Since all thoughts and decorations turned to Christmas, helium balloons of all shapes and sizes have begun appearing all over Rome. Sam has been constantly asking for a balloon of his own, but as the balloons are criminally expensive we have refused, instead attempting to keep him happy with experiences.
For instance, the other day we braved the rain and took him to the gardens of the Villa Borghese for a two-hour cycle on a four-wheel bike, which he loved. These are quite amazing contraptions, as they have an electrical assistance system – meaning riding up the steepest of hills requires minimal exertion. They’re almost as good as a Vespa.
But that was not good enough for Sam, he still begged for a balloon, so we then took him into Castel Sant’ Angelo, a foreboding building created by Hadrian for his own protection and utilised since by a series of Popes (via underground tunnels from the Vatican buildings), most of whom have been targets of assassination attempts. Amazingly, despite five previous visits to Rome, we have never entered the Castle which is nestled so handily and locally on the banks of the Tiber, near the entrance to Vatican City. We had assumed it had little to offer, but what fools we were. We now realise it boasts the very best views over Rome from its highest battlements. Here are some pics…
Despite the constant entertainment, Sam still petitioned for a balloon. So in a last-ditch attempt we decided to have the little devil exorcised. Back on Via dei Condotti this morning we saw the Pope (yes, again – it’s our second run-in with the caped crusader) blessing the crowd as part of the celebrations for the Feast of the Immaculate Conception – a public holiday today in Rome. He was rambling in Latin when he looked our way, deep into the crowd, then paused. “Is it really you?” he asked in the evil Germanic English accent that he does so well. Everybody in our part of the audience pointed at their own chest hopefully. Then he thrust his crooked finger crookedly at me, as if he was about to announce that Christ had come again. “You? Is it you? Could it be? Chris from TV HITS? Whatever happened to Baby Spice? And what about those lovely, Christ-fearing Hanson brothers – do they still get together to sing Mmmm Bop?”
Strange, the things that happen in Rome.
Pope-a-dope completely ignored poor Sam, who completely ignored Pope in return and once again began screaming for a balloon. So this afternoon, before our nightly carousel ride and after our nightly gelato, Jen wandered into a store and bought a four-pack of fancy balloons and a ball of string for a whopping EUR$1.50. Sam was finally satisfied, and Jen and I have a little peace and quiet as he sleeps and we sip red. Until tomorrow…
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