Second Helpings

When we arrived in Rome we re-instituted a daily custom from our last holiday in the city. The three of us set out for a long walk each afternoon and en route purchase something decadent and delicious to eat. Since day one on this trip we have consumed a heart-stopping count of calories. When we leave our apartment in the mid-afternoon we have no idea of what the day’s sweet treat might turn out to be. Sam always campaigns for gelato, Chris prefers an indulgence of the shortbread variety but on most days I insist on trying something new.

Last week on via Cola di Rienzo in the Prati district I chose an unusual cake from the display cabinet at a beautiful pasticceria. While all the other offerings were pretty, delicate and lady-like, this was a man-size tart – a burly outsider. It was lacking any adornment of icing sugar or fruit and it was brown. I was convinced that such an ugly specimen could only be a traditional favourite.

I was rewarded with a deep, robust shortcrust pastry shell filled abundantly with sultana-studded rice pudding (who would have thought of that?) that sickened my male companions. As I hoovered up the last crumb from my palm I vowed to find my way back to the Prati before the holiday ends, solely to eat another.

On a different occasion Chris and I devoured what I can only describe as a totally evil shortbread sandwich - two biscuits of about 10cm in diameter, bonded by a generous amount of velvety chocolate mousse. The top was iced with a glossy, thick chocolate ganache. It’s another taste sensation I must revisit. Likewise, the green apple gelato from a little gelateria near the Spanish Steps, the sickeningly gooey chocolate slices from a hole-in-the-wall bakery in Trastevere and the torta al formaggio we found in the kosher pasticceria in the Jewish ghetto … so much to eat, so little time.

With only seven days left in the Eternal City it seems there is an eternity of food to get through. But enough of my Nigella-ing, Rome is more than just the sum of its dolce. There are a few sites and experiences we’re planning to revisit, too.

1. Castel Sant’ Angelo by night. Although I had come to Rome six times, I had never ventured into the infamous fortress before this visit and it was brilliant. Sam loved the spooky tunnels and dungeons and was amazed by the cannons and pyramids of cannon balls. Chris and I were gobsmacked by the views. Visitors can also enter the castle in the evening, which will make for stunning night-time views over the city and super-spooky tunnels for Sam.

2. The Aventine Hill is a rather posh and leafy area of Rome. At the summit is the Parco Savello with its dozens of orange trees and spectacular views. Sam loves running along the paths and amongst the trees. Further along the road lies a magical keyhole in the door of the priory of the Knights of Malta. Peek through for a telescopic view of St Peter’s dome.

3. Four-wheel biking in the Villa Borghese gardens. Chris and I have little interest in reliving this particular experience but Sam is obsessed.

4. The Vatican and St Peter’s Basilica. This afternoon, after stopping for a luscious tart filled with while and dark chocolate ganache, we arrived at the Vatican at about 4pm. With not too many people around, Sam was able to run freely around the piazza in front of the Basilica. He made a friend called Mario, a three-year-old who lives with his parents near the Vatican. As the sun set, the lights came up and the Basilica and the Christmas tree in the piazza created an awesome atmosphere.